When I first stumbled upon Deguiret online, I was immediately struck by how beautiful their watches were and as I explored further, I was drawn to the brand’s unique take on luxury watchmaking. Unlike most traditional watchmakers, Deguiret is immersed in Georgian culture, crafting watches that are truly wearable pieces of art. The thought of owning a bespoke timepiece with a handcrafted dial made by skilled artisans—each design telling its own story—is incredibly exciting. Deguiret’s attention to detail and commitment to artisanal techniques is a refreshing departure from mass-produced luxury, making my discovery of this brand even more special.
Founded in 2021 by a French entrepreneur named Lucas Roillet, the brand reflects a collaboration between Swiss watchmakers and Georgian artists, with a focus on crafting intricate, limited-edition watches featuring uniquely designed dials. Deguiret watches bring together Georgian culture and the precision of Swiss mechanical watchmaking, creating timepieces that are as much art pieces as they are functional watches.
From the left: Deguiret founder Lucas Roillet, The En Mer from the Le Temps d’Un Voyage collection by Master Lia Meskhi
By using Minankari, a Georgian version of the more commonly known Cloisonné enamel, in their watch face designs, Deguiret both honors and reinvigorates traditional Georgian craftsmanship. Cloisonné and Minankari are both enameling techniques used to create vibrant, intricate designs on metal surfaces. Cloisonné is a widely recognized method used in various cultures, including China, Japan, and parts of Europe. In this technique, artisans solder thin metal wires onto a metal surface to form small compartments, or “cloisons,” which are then filled with powdered glass enamel. After multiple firings, the compartments are polished to create a smooth, glossy surface, showcasing detailed and colorful designs. Cloisonné is often seen in jewelry, decorative objects, and luxury watch dials due to its durability and vivid color palette.
A beautiful example of Cloisonné work in a Chinese bowl
Cloisonné enamel originated as a way to imitate true cloisonné work using gems. Minankari is a Georgian variation of cloisonné, rooted in the cultural heritage of the Caucasus region. The art’s origins can be traced to Safavid, Iran and were later seen to be borrowed by Byzantine masters. Though the process is similar, Minankari features unique Georgian motifs and symbols inspired by regional themes like nature, geometry, and spirituality. Often crafted on gold or silver, Minankari has a subtler finish compared to traditional cloisonné, with an emphasis on muted, earthy tones that reflect Georgian aesthetics. This art form, nearly lost to history, has seen a resurgence due to efforts by Georgian artisans and brands aiming to preserve its historical significance.
An early example of Cloisonne work in a 7th Century Anglo Saxon Bangle
The key difference between these techniques lies in their cultural focus and design. While cloisonné is more globally diverse in its themes and use, Minankari remains distinctly Georgian, with designs and colors unique to the region. Both techniques, however, demand meticulous craftsmanship and artistry, creating pieces that are not only beautiful but also carry a rich history. Cloisonné and Minankari enamel work continue to hold cultural and artistic value, especially in high-end and collectible objects, such as jewelry and luxury watches.
This technique gives Deguiret dials their vivid colors and fine details, with each piece taking hours to create. The brand’s dedication to craftsmanship extends beyond aesthetics, as Deguiret carefully selects artists who are passionate about preserving Georgian cultural arts. By engaging Georgian artists, the brand not only highlights the beauty of this ancient art form but also contributes to its continuation. These artisans bring fresh perspectives and individual styles to each watch, making Deguiret pieces a unique fusion of contemporary artistry and cultural heritage.
From the left: A Minankari enameled ring, A Minankari enameled pendant
The history of Minankari jewelry in Georgia spans over a thousand years, with its origins dating back to around the 8th century. This Georgian form of cloisonné enamel work is deeply tied to the country’s Christian heritage and medieval art traditions. It likely developed as an adaptation of ancient cloisonné techniques from Byzantium and Persia, blending regional influences with Georgian artistry.
Minankari originally adorned religious artifacts, icons, and jewelry with vivid colors depicting religious scenes and ornate designs, often crafted in monasteries by skilled artisans for religious and royal patrons. Flourishing during Georgia’s Golden Age in the 12th century under Queen Tamar, the technique gradually found appreciation beyond ecclesiastical contexts, even as invasions challenged its continuity. A 20th-century revival during Soviet times fueled interest in preserving Georgian heritage, leading artists to adapt Minankari for modern jewelry while maintaining its intricate, handmade nature. Today, Minankari remains a symbol of national pride, blending ancient craftsmanship with contemporary styles and preserving Georgia’s rich cultural legacy.
Lia Meskhi and Nikoloz Panchulidze are two Georgian artists known for their mastery of Minankari. Both have partnered with Deguiret, bringing their expertise into the realm of high-end watchmaking. Lia Meskhi and Nikoloz Panchulidze both studied at the Tbilisi State Academy of Arts, where they honed their skills in traditional cloisonné enameling, which they now apply in their intricate watch designs for Deguiret. Meskhi’s designs are often inspired by her love of travel and celestial motifs, as seen in her “Navigation aux Etoiles” dial, while Panchulidze’s work reflects Georgian cultural motifs blended with modern aesthetics, showcased in the “Aragon” and “Échos des Lagons” models.
The beautiful campus of the Tbilisi State Academy of Arts
Through these collaborations, Meskhi and Panchulidze are helping to revive and modernize the art of cloisonné enamel, making it accessible to watch collectors who appreciate both craftsmanship and cultural heritage. Each dial they create for Deguiret is a unique, wearable work of art that reflects the meticulous skill and dedication required for cloisonné. The brand’s commitment to using traditional Georgian techniques in a contemporary luxury setting provides a platform for these artists to reach a global audience, merging old-world artistry with innovative watch design.
From the left: Master Artist Lia Meskhi, The Deguiret Navigation aux étoiles of the Le Temps d’Un Voyage collection
Deguiret’s partnership with Meskhi and Panchulidze not only highlights the beauty of Georgian enamel art but also elevates its cultural significance within the watchmaking world. Their work exemplifies how cultural artistry can be preserved and appreciated through modern luxury, offering collectors distinctive pieces that embody both artistic heritage and the technical precision of Swiss horology.
The design of each Deguiret watch reflects a thematic narrative, capturing the beauty of nature or the mystique of the cosmos. The Lia Mekshi’s aforementioned “Navigation aux Etoiles” watch, for instance, showcases her passion for travel and exploration through a celestial-themed enamel dial. This model encapsulates the wonder of night skies and star maps, a tribute to both the ancient practice of celestial navigation and the human drive to explore. Similarly, “Échos des Lagons”, another model, presents a tranquil, ocean-inspired scene that embodies the calm of serene lagoons, crafted by Nikoloz Panchulidze. Each dial is a one-of-a-kind creation, making each watch truly unique and an expression of the artist’s vision.
From the left: The Deguiret Échos des lagons of the Talismans collection, Master Artist Nikoloz Panchulidze
The quality of Deguiret’s mechanical components further underscores the brand’s commitment to excellence. Each watch is powered by a self-winding, automatic Swiss caliber with a 59-hour power reserve. This movement provides not only reliable timekeeping but also aligns with the long-standing tradition of Swiss horological craftsmanship. Housed in a 42mm stainless steel case, the movements are set within a durable structure that complements the intricate and delicate enamel dials. By combining Swiss precision with artistic detail, Deguiret achieves a balance between functionality and beauty, offering timepieces that appeal to both watch collectors and art enthusiasts.
Deguiret’s approach to production is another distinguishing factor. The brand is dedicated to limited production, typically crafting just two to four watches per month. This exclusivity ensures each piece receives the meticulous attention to detail it deserves and maintains the brand’s air of rarity. Additionally, many of these watches are customizable, allowing clients to either choose from an existing design or commission a new one based on a particular theme or inspiration. This production model not only allows for creative collaboration between client and artist but also ensures that each timepiece tells a personal story, making it a lifelong keepsake.
The beautifully finished caseback and rotor of Deguiret’s Swiss caliber movement
Collectors and enthusiasts have praised Deguiret’s timepieces for their visual appeal and exclusivity. The artistry involved makes these watches more than simple accessories—they serve as wearable art pieces that convey stories and emotions. For those drawn to the world of horology, Deguiret’s timepieces offer an experience that combines the tactile satisfaction of mechanical watchmaking with the visual pleasure of fine art. By choosing a Deguiret, wearers invest in a piece of culture, craftsmanship, and luxury. Each watch reflects a commitment to rarity, quality, and artistry, positioning Deguiret as a compelling option for watch aficionados looking for something distinctive and meaningful.
From the left: The Deguiret Aragon, Drôle d’oiseau and Auxine watches
In a world where luxury watches often follow established paths, Deguiret stands apart, infusing each timepiece with cultural soul and artistry. The brand’s dedication to preserving and showcasing the traditional Georgian art through the expert hands of artists, creates a sense of timelessness that is rare in modern watchmaking. These watches are not just instruments of time; they are portals to stories of nature, celestial beauty, and cultural heritage that resonate deeply with collectors. These intricate details not only embody artistic passion but also ensure a lifetime of beauty and durability for those who wear them. This dedication to quality and cultural significance adds to the allure of owning a Deguiret timepiece.
For those captivated by the intersection of art, culture, and horology, Deguiret offers a unique opportunity to own a piece of living heritage. Each watch transcends mere function, representing a fusion of past and present, art and mechanics. Choosing Deguiret is more than acquiring a luxury accessory; it’s investing in a piece of cultural legacy, a timeless reflection of both Georgian artistry and Swiss precision that will continue to inspire for generations.
